current story

May 29, 2005

Surviving Sullivan County in the summer

   By Steve Israel
   Times Herald-Record
   sisrael@th-record.com
   
   Ah, summer in Sullivan County .
   Inhaling that fresh Catskill mountain air - and the exhaust fumes of Route 42 traffic.
   Worshipping the shimmering sunsets over the Delaware - and steaming over the long lines at ShopRite.
   Jumping into a cool, clear lake - and leaping out of your skin at one more car that cuts you off.
   Yes, summertime in Sullivan County sure is something else.
   And surviving it is something special.
   So here, on the weekend that summer in Sullivan unofficially begins, is your chance to learn how to survive - and even thrive - during the hottest season in Sullivan County.
   If you win, you'll forever treasure memories of the majestic mountains, pristine waters and nights of a billion stars.
   If you lose, you'll awake in the middle of the night with nightmares of a blinking left turn signal on that car turning right.
   So pile the kids into the car, strap the mattress on the roof, stick one arm out of the window to hold that mattress and get ready to play Surviving Sullivan Summer:
   
   Take one breath of fresh air: A leisurely drive around Sullivan's northernmost hamlet, Lew Beach.
   Gag on gas fumes: Try getting to Sullivan at about 6 p.m. on a Friday on Route 17 West.
   Penalty gag: Try to make it over the Wurtsboro Mountain in the left passing lane on a Friday night.
   
   Cruisin' and groovin': A leisurely weekday drive along the truly scenic byway, Route 97, from the Hawk's Nest to Long Eddy.
   Cruisin' for a bruisin': Heading east on Route 17 at 7 p.m. on a Sunday
   
   Music to the ears: The Callicoon Center Band, in beautiful downtown Callicoon Center, Wednesday nights from July through August.
   Honkin' the blues: Putting up with the not-so-sweet sounds of summer - those belching, blasting motorcycles on straight-aways like Route 55 between White Lake and Eldred.
   
   Saturday night sweats: Driving through Woodbourne after dark on Saturday night. That's when orthodox Jews pack the streets to celebrate the end of Sabbath.
   Saturday night fever: Jazz at Tusten, the Delaware Valley Arts Alliance jazz series in Narrowsburg, which kicked off last night with the Vanguard Jazz Orchestra.
   
   A little slice of heaven: The Little World's Fair in Grahamsville on Woodstock anniversary weekend.
   A big headache: Camping at the original Woodstock site on Woodstock weekend, when camping isn't allowed.
   
   A piece of paradise: A drive to the northeast Sullivan hamlet of Claryville.
   A summer bummer: Trying to use your cell phone in Claryville.
   
   A good time is guaranteed for all: Canoeing on the Delaware when the forecast is bad and the weather turns good.
   Kind of a drag: Canoeing down the Delaware without a life vest.
   
   Bridges over welcome water: Exploring the covered bridges around Livingston Manor.
   Bridge over troubled water: Putting your boat into Swinging Bridge Reservoir before the water level is raised.
   
   Eat it up: Izzy's Knishes in Loch Sheldrake - like mom used to make, if your mom was a good cook.
   Beaten up: Trying to get to any kosher bakery on a Friday afternoon, when the challah bread is as hot as the tempers of the customers who've been stalled in traffic.
   
   A walk on the mild side: Spend a summer's day on two unique trails, the antiques or pottery trails (maps are available at the Sullivan County Government Center in Monticello).
   Walk away: Feeding those cute-looking, but deadly, big bears.
   
   Enjoying the fat of the land: Sampling the bounty of a Sullivan summer at a farmer's market in Callicoon, Jeffersonville, Liberty, Bethel, Wurtsboro or Roscoe.
   Torture, Sullivan style: Negotiating the obstacle course that's Wal-Mart on a Sunday afternoon.